Meyer Lemon Blueberry Buttermilk Custard by Tyler Malek
Oh California, paradise of produce, land of the Meyer lemon, a smooth-skinned fruit with a milder acidity and more complex flavor than the everyday lemon. In our L.A. kitchen, a glut of citrus inspired us to devise an ice cream that’s both super bright and super rich. The tang of lemon and buttermilk sets the stage for dense, egg yolk-fortified ice cream and sweet blueberry jam that’s swirled in to keep the push-pull of flavors going. If you can’t get Meyer lemons, this is still super yummy with regular ones.
MAKES ABOUT 2 ½ pints
FOR THE BUTTERMILK CUSTARD BASE:
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons dry milk powder
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
4 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons light corn syrup
1½ cups heavy cream
1½ cups buttermilk
FOR THE LEMON BLUEBERRY ICE CREAM:
Grated zest (use a Microplane) and juice of 1 Meyer lemon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup Blueberry Jam (recipe follows), or ½ cup storebought jam mixed with freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
MAKE THE BASE:
Combine the ½ cup sugar, the dry milk powder, and the xanthan gum in a small bowl and stir well. In a large bowl, combine the egg yolks and the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and whisk until the yolks are lighter in color, about 1 minute.
In a medium pot, combine the corn syrup and the cream. Add the sugar mixture and immediately whisk vigorously until smooth. Set the pot over medium heat and cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat if necessary, to prevent a simmer, until the sugar has fully dissolved, about 3 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat. Start whisking the yolk mixture and continue to whisk constantly while slowly drizzling
MAKE THE ICE CREAM:
In a bowl, combine the (very cold) buttermilk custard base, lemon zest and juice, and salt and whisk to get the lemon fully incorporated. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and turn on the machine. Churn just until the mixture has the texture of soft-serve (see pages 23 to 24 for timing ranges, depending on the machine).
Stir the jam with a fork to loosen it. Alternate spooning layers of the custard and dolloping blueberry jam over each spoonful in freezer-friendly containers.
Cover with parchment paper, pressing it to the surface of the ice cream so it adheres, then cover with a lid. It’s okay if the parchment hangs over the rim. Store it in the coldest part of your freezer (farthest from the door) until firm, at least 6 hours. It will keep for up to 3 months.
(makes about 2 cups)
1 pint fresh blueberries
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon pectin
1 cup granulated sugar
In a food processor, puree the blueberries. In a medium pot, heat the blueberry puree, lemon juice, and pectin over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until it reaches a boil. Stir in the sugar and continue to cook over medium-high heat until the mixture comes back to a boil. Immediately remove the pot from the heat and let the jam cool to room temperature. Chill the jam thoroughly before using. It can be stored in the fridge for up to 3 months.
Reprinted from Salt & Straw Ice Cream Cookbook. Copyright © 2019 by Salt & Straw, LLC. Photographs copyright © 2018 by Andrew Lee Thomas. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC